Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Burberry The Beat Dior Dune To the Greeks, it spelled good fortune.) That could be heliotrope, too. In some hot places, vetiver is woven into blinds and matting, which are not only wonderfully fragrant as the breeze wafts through them or theyre trodden underfoot: vetiver has cooling properties. In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. Dior Dolce Vita Want an exclusive offer? Calvin Klein Beauty Smelled neat (weve tried it: really not a good idea), it whiffs intensely of birch tar and leather; only when expertly blended does it soften and seduce, blending well with rose and oud in particular, and acting as an excellent fixative for other notes. Adds perfumer Andy Tauer, 'Styrax actually comes in two forms, which give different effects. Natural musk is also one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. Guerlain Rose Barbare Lacoste Pour Femme Prada Prada Amber Notes reminiscent of this favourite beverage from the dried leaves of Camellia sinensis (seen in our photo growing on plantation slopes) - have made their way into quite a few sheer, uplifting fragrance creations in recent years, a trend kickstarted by Bulgaris Eau Parfume au Th Vert. Thats what legendary nose Jean Kerlo told our Perfume Society co-founder Jo Fairley to close her eyes and think of, when smelling vetiver from a perfumers vial. 9 Eau de New York Cartier Must de Cartier Floral Street Neon Rose (Dont worry: we wont test you.) Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Sharp, aromatic, refreshing, grapefruit from the peel of the fruit of the Citrus paradise tree - blends well with other citrus ingredients in the overture, or top notes, of summery and uplifting scents, blending well with basil, lavender, cedarwood and ylang-ylang. Cartier Cartier de Lune It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). By Kilian Back to Black So fast does the rose fade, in fact, that some farmers in Turkey and Bulgaria transport their own copper stills to the fields, heating them on the spot over wood fires to distill the precious Damask Rose oil, which separates from the water when heated in only the tiniest of quantities: 170 rose flowers are said to relinquish but a single drop. His father prayed for Orchis to be restored, but instead the gods transformed him into the flower we know today as the orchid. (And its used in spells for beauty!) Oscar de la Renta Live in Love Diptyque LEau de Tarocco Issey Miyake Pleats Please Hydroxycitronellol - a synthetic-only compound very common in fragrances of all kinds from fine to household cleaners. Le Labo Perfume Neroli 36 Chanel No. Maybe it is because it brings together the etherealpleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our bodywith food. Roja Parfums Risqu Tom Ford Black Orchid Worth Je Reviens. GalimardGalimard Star Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Yves Saint LaurentLa Collection Nu. Elie Saab Le Parfum Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict LArtisan Parfumeur LEau de LArtisan Yves Saint Laurent Paris, Sweet, almost honeyed, balsamic, peppery: copaiba essential oil is often used in incense. Este Lauder Sensuous Van Cleef & Arpels First And where would Guerlains Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14? Diptyque LEau Trois Nasomatto Black Afgano Heaven knows how or why someone had the idea of using the soft, paste-like glandular secretion from underneath the swishy striped tails of civet cats, however, which they use to mark their territory: its extraordinarily powerful and even stomach-turningly obnoxious in its concentrated form. Givenchy Very Irresistible LIntense It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, Mimosa. It reminds people who know it of the Kir Royal, a celebratory cocktail blending cassis liqueur with champagne," says Benaim. By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad The Bacchanalians tore him apart. Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Femme Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant C13? Ylang ylang has a fruity top like a juicy crunchy pear and a body with an elegant floral softness that gives sensuality to both feminine and masculine fragrances," says Liegent. Guerlain Jicky Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal For centuries, aside from perfumery, the mimosa tree has been used for many different purposes from medicinal to ornamental. Many of us are familiar with the beige-skinned, yellow-fleshed fresh spice, which adds pungency to cooking as the Romans, who first imported it, discovered. Absolutely. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. Guerlain Champs Elyses Plants take from five to seven years to flower abundantly, with up to 60 flowers on a single plant but that makes for a pricy ingredient. Dior JAdore Dior Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from wine. Why allspice? Evody Note de Luxe Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. They found that: "Many of the personal care products we tested contained more hazardous chemicals than the cleaning products we tested.". Evody Pomme dOr ), and in pomanders to protect against infection. (Castor, by the way, gets its name from the Greek word for beaver. Este Lauder Private Collection Interestingly, the Thierry Mugler brand now says its ageing its fragrances in wood casks an echo of the wine and spirits world, By Kilian Back to Black Lady Gaga Fame Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois Roja Dove Reckless Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness that plant was the Vanilla vine. The twigs, buds and foliage of this 3-metre tree can be steam-distilled but cassia is sometimes recreated synthetically, giving a potent and seriously spicy, almost earthy note that when handled with care lends itself especially well to Ambres. E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. E.g. The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up by fountains all around town, however, was rosewater - the water in which roses have been steeped, then discarded. Its been used in fragrance for millennia: the ancient Egyptians burned ambergris as incense, while the Chinese referred to ambergris as dragons spittle fragrance. Beyonc Heat Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th Vert Yves Saint LaurentOpium. But it was their appearance in Chanel No. (Look under E for more about eugenol.). (Say it foo-jair, with the j a little soft almost foo-shair.) The early Arab perfumers used labdanum in their recipes the sweetest-scented of all substances, as it was described, its links to perfumery actually go back to Egyptian time, when labdanum (a.k.a. "It is woody and very vibrant as I love, with a mystical smoky side and a lot of strength bringing character and complexity to a perfume.. Revlon Charlie Blue. Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Toilette This unisex . Dont ask me why but it seems to fix itperfectly and it calms the hyperactive lavender. Same sweetness but more subtle. THE REASON TO BUY CHANEL PERFUMES: High-quality ingredients and a status symbol. Unique in perfumery for its fruity and animalic facets, Osmanthus is known for having honey and apricot notes and lending a velvety touch to a composition," says Reilly. Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. Ionones and methyl ionones have been worked into almost every perfume worn today, and include methyl alpha ionone, which has gorgeous hints of raspberry and woods. 1) By Rosie Jane Price: $28-70. The use of this gloriously purple-coloured plant in perfumery goes right the way back to Ancient Egypt. They give perfumes a gentle, deep dark, sensuality. Nina Ricci Premier Jour When it is fresh, it is blackish in color and smells quite foul. KenzoKenzo Amour Florale ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. Prada Infusion de Fleur dOranger In nature, of course, its toxic: the Atropa belladonna plant can kill. Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. Of course, perfumers can mimic the scent using other woody and ambery ingredients more abundant in nature but nothing compares to the complexity of high- quality natural oud oil, which has olfactory references to dry woods, ambery resins, and even leather. Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Ah, bluebells: those nodding, beautiful five-petalled spring flowers that seem so quintessentially English but actually flourish anywhere from here to northern Spain, with over 500 species in all. (Or rather, lots of members: there are thousands of varieties of Malus domestica, a tree originating in Asia). Its extracted by steam distillation of freshly-picked flowers, which must be a gorgeous task. (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). While all our product fragrance ingredients are safe to use, we understand some people want to learn more. Penhaligon's Bluebell. Caron Muguet de Bonheur Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. ), Amouage Memoir Woman As you might suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too. Orange blossom can be used almost symbolically in fragrance, as well as for its bewitching scent: over time, its come to represent purity, moral virtue and innocence, but fruitfulness and fertility, too. Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). Giorgio Armani Sensi Its richness allows for multiple ways to create with it,' says perfumer Caroline Sabas. Perfumer and author Mandy Aftel calls it as close to heaven as we are likely to get, telling us its reminiscent of raspberry, apricot, violet and yellow freesia. Equally bewitching. But as with many unlikely perfume ingredients, add it in the teensiest dose, and hemlock can add depth and intrigue. In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. Le parfumeur franais qui enseigne toutes les manires de tirer les odeurs des fleurs, & faire toutes sortes de compositions de parfums avec le secret de purger le tabac en poudre & le parfumer de toutes sortes d'odeurs pour le divertissement de la noblesse, l'utilit des personnes religieuses & ncessaire aux baigneurs & perruquiers. Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. Givenchy Very Irresistible 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! (Blackcurrant leaves can smell a little catty when you rub them between your finger though in a fragrance, that wont be apparent.) Guerlain Myrrhe & Dlires FragranceWomen. Thats the zesty, lemony burst of citral, a natural aldehyde which is present in the oil of quite a few plants, including lemon myrtle, lemongrass, lemon tea tree, lemon verbena, lemons themselves, limes, as well as orange and petitgrain (the flower of the bitter orange). Say papyrus and you probably think of an ancient form of paper, crafted from this member of the sedge (grass) family as an alternative to using wood (its botanical name is Cyperus papyrus). Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin), after deliberately damaging the bark. The most celebrated use of bourgeons de cassis has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade. The leaves of this flowering plant which can grow to two or three metres are deliciously lemony and fresh when rubbed, and give a cleanness and uplifting freshness to scents. (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) "In perfumery, we use the oil extracted from the lemon peel, which is zesty and juicy, and gives brightness to a fragrance," says perfumer Dana Schmitt. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Diptyque Opne It goes especially well with musks, fruits and flowers. American Eagle Seventy Seven contained 24 secret . Goutal ParisEau dHadrien However, as Guerlains in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser explained to us, whenever something is removed from an ingredient through fractionation, it leaves a hole. Narciso Rodriguez for Her And in perfumery? Serge Lutens Daim Blonde In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. "Oud or agarwood has been revered in Asian, Arabic, and North African cultures for millennia," says Illolahia. Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. ", "Even though this is one of the most broadly loved notes around the world, few people know that it actually comes from the seed pod of an orchid," says perfumer Stephen Nilsen. Christian Dior Sakura Miller Harris La Fume 5 that changed everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness and strength. Guerlain Chant DArome In Brief Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is back for the 2023 edition Firmenich launches fragrance-making 'rules' to improve focus and boost attention "It is super-chic, and I strongly believe in its rebirth after years of outdatedness. Credit: Credo Beauty. In perfumery, though, grass delivers a sweet, herbaceous scent maybe not quite like walking past a house where the grass has just been cut, but delivering a gust (or a whisper) of outdoorsy freshness, nonetheless. In perfumery, the most useful iris plants are Iris Pallida (mauve in colour), Iris Germanica (strong purple) and Iris Florentina (white flowers). Lady Gaga Fame Styrene is one of the 3,000-odd ingredients on the list. Fig also goes well with coconut, and other green notes. Its delectably intoxicating, in fragrances and perfumers love to blend it with sandalwood, bergamot, clary sage and other floral notes. This oil obtained from ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor. This reputation was much enhanced in 1762 when a German study found that a medication based on vanilla extract cured impotence all 342 smiling subjects claimed they were cured., Vanillas reputation as a powerful aphrodisiac endures, and its often present in sexy, come-hither fragrances, especially Ambres and gourmand fragrances, as well as girly, younger creations. FlorisPink Grapefruit L.VilloresPiper Negrum. Carthusia Numero Uno Patchouli, black tea and tobacco can also conjure up that old library/leather-jacket sensuality. Serge LutensArabie Its more likely to be isoeugenol, an ingredient found naturally in the essential oils of nutmeg and ylang-ylang, but which can also be synthesised from eugenol. Wild chamomile, for instance, is herbal, sweet and fresh, more reminiscent of the tea we drink to calm ourselves or beckon sleep. Its been used in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot. linden, or Tilia cordata) almost seems to drip with honey. (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak (Say it petty-gran.) Burberry London Revlon Charlie Silver. Here, you can read about literally hundreds of the different perfume elements in use today. In one camp is natural perfume purveyors that steer completely clear of . Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her . In aromatherapy - where its the therapy that counts, rather than the aroma -its widely used; its just brilliant for coughs and wheezes. Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures Tom Ford Jonquille de Nuit Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. Yardley Lily of the Valley. ), Caron Tabac Blond With recyclable packing materials and US-based manufacturing, we're enchanted by this sweet perfume . Givenchy Amarige Birch tar can be one of the ingredients going in there. 1. (Pink pepper a.k.a. Collection of oudh from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. Herms Terre dHerms Sometimes, a perfumer will put them side by side in the same fragrance, to create the equivalent of a fig soliflore. You might think that the name has sexy overtones but not at all: allegedly the passionflower (a glorious blue/purple, twining vine) and passion fruit were named by Spanish Catholic missionaries who saw the flower as the symbol of the Passion of Christ, because the ring around its heart looks like the Crown of Thorns. Gucci Flora by Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. Angelica is a family of beautiful, umbellifer (or umbrella-like) plants, including Angelica archangelica: both the root and the seeds can be used (though the roots more pungent). Flower of fertility, in ancient times and a cure, too: garlands of violets worn around the head were thought to prevent headaches and dizziness, while in ancient Athens, they drank wine scented with violets. Or do you get a whiff of almond? ChanelCoromandel The name (who knew?) Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes. You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. ". Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture Britney Spears Curious Miller Harris Jasmin Vert "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Britney Spears Believe (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. Can it be sex-in-a-bottle? Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oudh is becoming hard to source. The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. Caron Tubereuse Goutal Eau de Camille Roja Dove Danger Pour Homme Extrait - an aromatic woody fragrance released in 2011. There truly is an oudh for all tastes, now! Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. Ambrette seeds are probably one of my preferred ingredients because of their soft animalic character, and warm nutty milk undertones. Acqua di Parma Colonia Acqua di Parma Kenzo Amour Dior Dolce Vita The brand establishes a relationship of confidence with producers . Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. 19 "Used widely in perfumery, indole is often used to bring intrigue and a seductive edge to a scent," says perfumer John Gamba. Bark: Tree barks are common ingredients for making perfumes. "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. Inspired by Parisian women's inimitable style, La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain is an amber vanilla fragrance for women. Bergamot blends well with other aromatics, which is why it is so popular in fragrance.". Guerlain Tonka Impriale However, because its increasingly rare, the prices have um spiked, putting it beyond the reach of many contemporary perfumes. ), Chanel Bois des Iles Herms Osmanthe Yunnan It has a touch of pine to it: a bit sappy, a touch bitter, but definitely fresh and powerful, so its generally used in small doses. Thierry Mugler Angel. Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines Marc Jacobs DOT. In traditional perfumery youd use it to blend with the top and mid notes, youd leave the mixture to macerate for months, to give it weight and depth, and to help keep the lighter molecules from flying away too rapidly. Prada Infusion dIris Lancme Trsor Because its feels like a glorious smell. (Nectarine goes particularly well with fruity notes, actually.) You may well have smelled osmanthus in a fragrance without realising: this creamy white blossom gives a surprisingly mouthwatering, succulent, hints-of-peach-and-plum-and-apricot nuance to perfumes. Boucheron Boucheron 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. Theyre both from the small white flowers that blossom on the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantia) - which is much more fragrant than the orange tree which produces the fruit for eating. And though its more popular in Indian perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed in some stunning contemporary scents. The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Its over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener. Burberry Weekend for Women LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numro 1 (Its actually been proven to quell anxiety and promote sleep.) 341 Likes, 29 Comments - Amina | Visual Designer (@amina.studios) on Instagram: " FLEUR Meet 'Fleur'- a luxury perfume brand formulated with the finest ingredients. "Crystalline in form and snow-white in color, coumarins presence in fragrances is ubiquitous. Some ingredients in perfume may sound familiar while others appear completely foreign. All of its perfumes are free of sulfates, phthalates, phosphates, and gluten, as well as free of microbeads. Oscar de la Renta Oscar For many today people, its still a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, evoking plenty of prejudice. Its resinous. "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. Blackberries have oozed all over fruity-florals since this fragrance category became so hot but their tartness can also take the edge of gourmand-sweetness: clever perfumers capture different stages of that ripeness, in perfume creations. The fruit, by contrast, is lush, juicy, ripe and sunny. Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. When you spritz a scent and get an aquatic hit of melon, its probably not actually melon you smell that so-refreshing summer fruit but an ingredient called calone, one of the best-known synthetic ingredients in a perfumers weaponry. The Brand: Guess doesn't require any guesses when it comes to their scent collection. The leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances: earthy, peppery, fruity, buttery or subtly herbal. Used shorthand for any perfume ingredient derived from natural, non-synthetic sources. Yves Saint Laurent Paris. It also blends beautifully with sweet pea and with tuberose. In my perfumery work, I usesynthetics for raspberry chords, too. ), The seeds left behind when the pretty yellow umbelliferous (umbrella-like) flowers have faded are used in steam-distillation of the fennel essential oil. 5 Everyone knows what an orange smells like, of course: that burst of zest as you dig your fingers into the waxy skin to break into this juiciest of fruits. Poets Narcissus, or Narcissus poeticus) is native to Europe, and growers cultivate it in the Netherlands and the Grasse area of France, extracting an oil which smells like a blend of jasmine and hyacinth. Dye their underwear a vibrant yellow popular in Indian perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed some. Without the peach-skin warmth of C14 popular, High-quality oudh is becoming hard to source forest floor to material. 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