Layover at Sapphire Lake while weather passed. Leisurely pace over 6 days / 7 nights, This was an amazing hike! This trail goes by Loch Leven, Piute Pass, Summit Lake, Upper Golden Trout Lake, Lamarck Col, and North Lake Campground. Day 3: From camp, descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! 6 days / 5 night. This is high country and we had a brief hail & wind storm as well as our coldest overnight stay (mid 20 degrees Fahrenheit). I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. Oh well. Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. Day Zero Travel day. We hiked it in 7 days but could have done in 6. Camp, or finish the last 2.7 miles to the trailhead. The Evolution Loop is a magnificent route through some of the most inspiring terrain in the High Sierra. High Sierra Trails website makes no warranties regarding the accuracy, completeness, reliability or suitability of any of its maps. I had 2500 feet of climbing to do tomorrow, and I wanted to get as much of it done as possible while it was still cool. Then I continued north. The best hike of my life. . Pass along rocky shores of Evolution Lake JMT092 Location: 37.054474, -118.501686 Start of the Golden Staircase, last section of the JMT to be completed. They were hustling right along. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. Did this hike in end of June 2020 but it was one of my favorites to date so want to leave a review. Oh, yes, this was heavenly! Did this in the opposite direction (South Lake to North Lake) and had a blast. Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, several lateral trails connect to the John Muir Trail. To avoid the risk of getting sick, most Sierra backpackers filter or treat their drinking water. The water was seriously cascading as it made its way over the steep edge of the valley, flowing downward into the South Fork San Joaquin River Valley, which I could see off the edge of space to the north. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! if you go over table top mountain you can make it a complete loop. Oh ya, chill and take your time. The North Lake-South Lake loop is the famous "Rainbow Trail" and includes spectacular scenery visiting such areas as Dusy basin, Le Conte Canyon, Muir Pass, Evolution valley, and Humphrey's Basin. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). Slept like a drunken sailor. It was desert like in the high alpine on that side. Just needed a puffy jacket, could skip the fleece. "All truth goes through three stages. . Sign up for Outside+ today. I could see both up and down the canyon, and there was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. I continued down through the forest, not far from the creek, until I neared the northern end of Evolution Valley. Now I can say, beeen there in a sing-song tone suggesting my best time ever in the land of granite. 10/10 would recommend! There are several decent camping spots in the meadow and they are all next to heavy-flowing Piute Creek. It had taken me almost twelve hours, although I have to admit that I took several very long breaks. A great spot! The ferry is $25 roundtrip, or $13 one way. Notice that when I downsized my load I didnt ditch the tequila. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. I've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing. Piute Pass Trail - North Lake Beginning in lodgepole pine and quaking aspen, the trail follows the creek at the foot of Piute Crags and Mount Emerson. There was no bridge. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. I have done this trail three times in all. Did this 8/8-8/12, 5 days / 4 nights. It was not very buggy and lightly rained on 2/8 days. 2 trip report day 0-4: getting in & Yosemite National Park warm up. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. Your email address will not be published. There were only 2-3 times where I needed to use my AllTrails app to figure out the correct way to continue. On my way between JMT and Piute there were 5+ stream crossings that necessitated wading. Day 1 South Lake over Bishop Pass to Upper Dusy Basin: 7.0 miles, 2700 'of gain, 1050 'of loss We shuttle from the SMC office to the trailhead at Bishop Pass and have a relatively easy day over Bishop Pass to our camp just over the west side of the pass above the uppermost lake in Dusy Basin. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. Of course, the unforgettable moments started to pile up as we descended into Evolution Basin and then officially into the hanging valley of Evolution. My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. Wished we could have camped at Evolution Lake as it's sooooo beautiful but it didn't work out for us. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. The trail is quite rocky in most places so slower than you might expect given the elevation profile. Great camping along the creek once you cross the several streams in Hutchinson Meadow (night 1). The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Lake Thomas A. Edison Ferry: Lake Thomas A. Edison from the ferry: . The ferry was not running yet. I have done it over 4 days - 3 nights and my backpack was around 42 pounds. We puzzled about the cause. Stargazing out in the Evolution Valley should be on everyone's bucket list. Deer are seen occasionally. For trail conditions and more details about this hike, check out my YouTube Video I made from this backpacking trip on my channel: Kikis Adventures. We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. Florence Lake, east of Fresno, is the most convenient trailhead for backpacking trips to Evolution Valley. Good campsites can be found there also. These Photos Prove It. Once we reached the pass at 11,955 feet, we were gifted with the sight of Muir Hut constructed in 1930 by the Sierra Club, with the intention of sheltering hikers that may find themselves caught in unsavory weather. Piute Pass actually puts you into the upper reaches of the San Joaquin River Basin (So. Again, I will say that there is plenty of water the whole way, so drink up. Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). Purchase tickets in the store. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. Edit Last Edited by tomripley30 Sights to See North Lake Campground Stock Camp Summit Lake Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. Does this seem like a fair deal to you? Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Weather was great very little wind. Speaking of water, we regularly forded streams ranging from little hip-hop creeks to put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers! The trail on the right leads north into French Canyon. For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. September after Labor Day was a great time to make this trip, as the crowds had thinned but the mild climate lingered. Great Trip! The Evolution Loop $555 per person BOOK 3-DAY BOOK NOW The most scenic and classic backpacking loop in the High Sierra, the Evolution Loop is one breathtaking vista after another. 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. Bugs werent that bad. Starting at the North Lake TH, we will cross Piute Pass (11,423'). Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. Aside from stellar views, you will also find a station in McClure Meadow that is manned in the summer months by a ranger. Evolution Basin. But that suited me fine. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. Having two cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics a lot easier. A couple of mosquitos came out in the cooler air as the shadow of the mountain came into camp. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. Campsite 1: Upper Golden Trout Lake. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic. The Best backpacking hike ever! We would love to be back again sometime. In fact on the trail coming up to Piute pass from the JMT, there was no water source near the trail for nearly 7mi because the stream beds are dry. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. We found the trailhead about 1/3 mile away and hiked a few miles to Loch Leven. Most of our campsites were fantastic with waterfalls or pretty lakes. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. Very exciting. The best sites we found are located on the east side of the trail directly after we crossed the stream that feeds the lake. So peaceful and tranquil. The Vanderbilt Mine is located partly on private land in the San Bernardino County, two miles west of California-Nevada state lines in the New York mountains four miles southeast of the Ivanpah valley within the Mojave National Preserve. Push to camp spots near the McClure Meadow ranger station; you will be rewarded with the best breakfast scenery the next day (night 2). Me either, until we exited the forest at about 11,000 feet and monster granite views appeared. The hike up to Evolution Lake is steep, but reasonably graded. At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. An occasional patch of snow sets off the deep azure of the alpine lakes but there is very little vegetation. We started at 8,200 feet and camped at 11,200 feet. But, conditions are still challenging. In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. Ooops! 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. Monday, they crossed 11,500-foot Piute Pass. This was hands down one of the best hikes I've done in the High Sierras. Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. Beautiful alpine lakes, waterfalls, and my God the meadows. We found several amazing campsites just off the east side of the trail that held us warm and protected from the wind. Hike down 6.6 miles to LeConte Canyon, which is a very beautiful, deep canyon with lush meadows and forests. The trees were also providing good shade, except for a couple of bare places where avalanches had swept the forest away, leaving only chest-high chaparral. But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. Completed hike Aug 14. The stars up there were surreal. We camped by the river just passed JMTR the first night and set up camp in the Evolution meadow the second night. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet This is a beautiful post. Following the PCT southward another 4 miles will bring you to Evolution Meadow. This trek met every expectation I had plus some! Now I cant breathe for another reason. In addition, The John Muir Trail may be accessed via Piute Pass from North Lake which is only 10 miles from the resort. Loitering encouraged! One downside though: it's freaking hard. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop The trail to Piute Pass (11,423-ft.) ascends the lovely North Fork of Bishop Creek, passing photogenic Loch Leven and Piute Lakes along the way. GoPro video as I forded Evolution Creek, just north of Evolution Meadow. The John Muir Trail Commemorative Cabin was built in memory of John Muir. We camped up there on our second night. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. Pick up permit, eat at Burger Barn, head to, Day One Piute Pass trailhead over Piute Pass down through Humphreys Basin to, Day Two Hutchinson Meadow down Piute Creek to the JMT junction down along the San Joaquin River to the, Day Three Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction Up to Evolution Valley then into Evolution Basin and camp at, Day Four Sapphire Lake up to Wanda Lake then summit Muir Pass then down into Le Conte Canyon and camp at, Day Six Up over Bishop Pass and down to South Lake . Although the trail from the head of Florence Lake to Evolution Valley climbs over 2,000 feet, most of the elevation gain comes during the last miles. The next day we made it up to evolution valley. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. This was an epic backpacking trip and I would do it all over again to see evolution basin, and everything in between. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. But the views from the trail made up for it. I wasnt thrilled, but I figured that there would be a side creek somewhere along the way, as the map showed some possibilities. I found a spot right next to the creek in the shade of a small grove of trees. Even so, with campsites spread out along its length, the valley never seems crowded. In summary this section went from Lake Thomas A. Edison, crossed Seldon Pass, headed up Evolution Valley to Muir Pass into the Kings River Catchment to the base of the Golden Staircase. Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. The normal crossing is not recommended now due to the higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit. We started at south lake and ended on north lake, backwards from most, and while Piute pass was a hard hike, i think ending on Piute and Humphrey's Basin was a great way to complete the trip. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. $3,395: Description Itinerary Resources The John Muir Trail is one of the finest hikes to be found anywhere in the world. I jumped up and pumped them for information. Then we stayed there 1 night then hiked up to evolution valley. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. Backpacking Has Changed a Lot Over the Past 50 Years. Required fields are marked *. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. My sincere thanks to the fire fairies who set this up for us. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. Those who use the SteriPen, or any other filter system, are wise to carry a backup such as Potable Aqua Water Treatment Tablets. I have to say, however, that descending into Le Conte Canyon from Dusy Basin, and not the other way around, seemed like the more fortunate direction for my legs and backside. We hiked most of eac day covering 10-12 miles per day. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. This loop begins and ends at the North Lake trailhead. I hiked along this stretch of river for almost three miles, and sweated profusely the entire time. classic Sierra beauty from the very start. The North Lake-South Lake loop is there High Sierra at its very best! Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. Following that, we returned to North Lake via Lamarck Col, a high pass just short of 13,000'. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. Since we stopped for lunch here and the lake has no name I guess Ill call it Lunch Lake. We saw a snow avalanche once at a distance. The SteriPen Adventurer has become popular because it is more reliable than earlier models. Id have the trail to myself for a while. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. Free parkinggotta love that! Or bag flattopped Mt. We offer this guided journey in three itineraries: 3-day Ultralight 4-day Backpacking (July 23-26, 2022) 5-day Backpacking (July 16-20, 2022) By trying to further lighten our loads over and over again, we hit the trail far later than expected, so by necessity had to pitch our tents after only four miles at Saddlerock Lake (11,128 feet). Every effort is made to provide accurate and up to date information, but we cannot be responsible Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. No smoke from the California wildfires. So we caught the 9:00am ferry across and bought a few things in the little store there. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. That was a big mistake. First, it was a suggestion, and then it was an item on my Someday List. Didn't make it up to the lake, but SO HAPPY that we made it to the Hermit. Only done it North to South. Moderate to the rim of the valley. I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. I had descended 2500 feet and climbed another 1000 feet to get up here. And it was! Evolution lake is awesome. The Tyee Lakes part was not the most beautiful part and was pretty strenuous, but made transportation much easier. Do I really get to be here? Campsite 3: Colby Meadow. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. There's no reason to hurry -- it's such awesome, varied country. Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. That felt great! Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. Switchbacks up were very nice. Challenging but absolutely worth it, forever in my memories. By the time I was ready to hike I looked down at the tents below me on the shore of the lake and only one person had crawled out of their tent. Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. I would love to do it sometime, so thank you for the inspiration. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. The trail descended steeply into the forest as it left Evolution Basin. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. Mosquitoes burst forth in early and mid-summer, especially around the meadow areas near the Muir Trail Ranch and Evolution Valley. Meadows and trees and waterfalls were on my menu. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Im a layman, what can I say? Day 2 Evolution Valley 17.18 2977 AEG Emptied our packs and hiked down to the Muir Trail Ranch to pick our resupply. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. Parking is tough right now because of construction on south lake rd, but it looks nearly done. Erika, the alpine pond photograph posted next to the Day 2 text is stunning. The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. Day 4: Rest and explore. That was the new plan, I decided. Hiked 6/12-6/17. Setup camp and to our delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet. Best seasons: Mid-summer to fall I checked my GPS and discovered that I had hiked almost 15 miles today! Now, an 81-year old. Aahhh! My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. The alpine lakes but there is very little vegetation Meadow and they are all to! To be found anywhere in the Meadow areas near the Muir trail is quite in... Days - 3 nights and my God the meadows this hike in end of June 2020 but it n't! 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